After the crowd, the dirt and the general unfriendliness of the North, I felt relieved when my plane landed in Cochin on September 8th. While the plane was landing, I realized I just love the South so much more than the North. My family is from the South, so I may be biased, but thats ok! While the plane was landing, I could see palm trees, a gorgeous sunset and a life that seemed so much simpler. I also encountered friendly people - someone helping me with directions in the airport, helping me with my bags, the taxi driver trying to find my hotel... the south is just much clear and friendlier.
I was meeting Nico (Romania), Danny (Romania) and András (Hungary) in Cochin. They had arrived a few hours earlier by train and found a hotel near the train station. I was texting and calling those guys while they walked around Fort Kochi so I could get to the right place. The taxi driver dropped me off at the hotel. I walked in and the receptionist didn’t speak English. I busted out my Tamil skills (they speak Malayalam in Kerala, but a lot of people speak Tamil as well) and I thought he understood me but he had no idea what I was talking about. Turns out there is a hotel with the SAME name a block down. So I jumped in a rickshaw, we couldn’t find it and he took me back to the same place. The rickshaw driver, who spoke great Tamil, was so shocked that these people from Europe would be staying in a low budget hotel near the train station. When I got back to the same hotel I first encountered, they were trying to convince me that my friends weren’t there and I was trying to convince them of the opposite. Then these 3 guys that were staying at the hotel (and who spoke English) came to save the day! They explained that there are 3 more hotels with the SAME NAME! and in the SAME AREA and it causes confusion! Why would someone do that? I couldn’t and still don’t understand it. So they called the right hotel, gave directions to a rickshaw driver and I finally got there and my friends finally showed up as well.
The four of us hung out that night, got dinner, talked, listened to music and I also discovered that Danny and Nico were leaving the next day! I was a little shocked since I was supposed to be there for another 2 days. But András was staying, so I wasn’t alone. We said some heartfelt goodbyes that night and they left the following morning.
We spent the morning of the 9th in an internet cafe, looking for András’ train tickets and canceling my flight. I had a flight booked for Coimbatore for something like Rs. 2500. That’s not too expensive by Canadian standards, but when a train ticket costs Rs. 300 and is only 3 hours, it is cheaper and more convenient to go by train (considering the train station was 5 mins from where we were staying and I would have had to pay Rs 500 to get to the airport and 2 hours in a cab).
The main sight seeing spot in Cochin in Fort Kochi. We walked along the water to see the fishing boats and fishing nets (Chinese Fishing
Nets). There were vendors selling fresh (and fresh smelling) fish and seafood along the promenade. We visited a church (St. Francis Church) that was built by Portuguese and walked around the main area. I really liked Fort Kochi because you could walk everywhere! You didn’t have to take a rickshaw or a cab (like most places in India), but could just walk long the streets to see the sights and relax. Fort Kochi is built with European flavour with walkable streets, cafes and Euro style buildings - which was a nice change. We also visited Mattancherry Palace which was built by the Portuguese and then renovated by the Dutch (aka Dutch Palace). It was really cheap to get in (like Rs. 5) and they had an impressive collection of clothing from Kerala - what the kings/queens wore. They also had a room that had four walls covered in paintings and carvings from years past. It almost seemed as if they were to be on cave walls, but they were on the walls of this palace.
There is an area of Fort Kochi called Jew town which also has a synagogue. It was something really random, but cool to see nonetheless. The streets of Jew town are covered in shops that sells antiques, trinkets, spices, etc. We did have shop keepers telling András and I that we were a very nice couple and asking if we were married. We played it up sometimes, calling each other honey, but mostly to entertain ourselves.
We decided to walk a little off the beaten path and started to walk through the neighbourhoods of Fort Kochi. There weren’t a lot of people around, but it was nice to see how people really live in this part of India. At one point we came across a truck (lorry) and András decided this would be his moment to ride one. So he started poking his nose around, made friends with the drivers and jumped right in! The truck drivers were excited to share what they did with a foreigners and were trying to tell us where they were coming from.
Instead of paying over Rs. 150 for a rickshaw to the hotel from Fort Kochi, we decided to take the ferry across to the mainland. The ferry was Rs. 2.50 each (I think that is something like C$0.05!). It was nice to be on the water and we could see some of the bigger buildings and hotels as well.
While Nico, Danny and András had been traveling together throughout southern India, they didn’t sample the food that much in fear of their stomachs. I thought this very very unfortunate so I made sure András tried some great south Indian food - shrimp curry, paratha, dosas, roasted peanuts, traditional south Indian lunch etc. We went to really cheap places but ate so well. I was really happy for this change of pace after all of the garlic naan we had eaten up North.
On the 10th, we went on a backwaters cruise. Kerala is known for all of the small water channels that connect the villages, houses and land
and is a huge tourist attraction. We were on a boat full of French people but it was awesome. It was a full day affair where we got to cruise around on a covered boat, visit some sites where they showed us local means of living, went on an open canoe and ate lunch. It was peaceful and calming and really relaxing. One of the sites they took us to was to show us how they harvested shell fish and how they use every part (the fish and the shell) for different industry. We were also taken to some ladies that make rope out of coconut husk. We also tried palm wine when on the open canoe and it was disgusting - I don’t know how people drink that stuff.
The guys that make the boat go are intense. They put a huge pole in the water and walk it back and forth - even though they were old, they were ripped! The “driver” was chatting with us during lunch and decided to read my palm. He said that my life line was short. This was the second time someone in India had said that to me - well I guess that answers why I travel so much, I want to live it up before their predictions come true!
I was really happy to practice my Tamil in Kochi - with servers, rickshaw drivers and shop keepers. Many of them did ask if we were married and what we were doing there. But I guess we should have expected that. András referred to it as Dengele and would say things like, “go over to that guy and dengele with him” etc etc. Aside from the new name for the language, the practice came into use when I got to my next stop - Coimbatore.
Please post your comments! There is also a video of our backwaters cruise under the photos
A video of our backwaters cruise